In September 2004, I took a group of friends hiking in the mountains of Snowdonia. We rented the perfect farmhouse—it even had bathrooms and central heating. The highlight of the week was when we tackled Mt. Snowdon. Bowing to the age of some of our group. we took the rack railway to the summit and then hiked down. The five mile trail was quite challenging enough, with lots of loose rock and steep parts.But after a rainy week, the views were spectacular!
There are five paths up Snowdon from various starting points. Of the five the Llanberis path is not the shortest, but is the easiest. Always remember to bring good boots, wet weather gear, enough water and some food when tackling the mountains. Weather is very unpredictable and I have known it to snow in May.
This is a picture I took of the area around Llanfair. This is my model for Owen's Farm. Of course Llanfair is a fictitious village, but it's set in a real valley. Locals know exactly where it is!
I had a great trip to Wales a couple of years ago, and I'd like to share some of the highlights with you.
Wye Valley Area:
Not my usual stomping grounds and well away from Llanfair, but friends in Monmouth took us on a fantastic drive over the hills to Hay on Way. It was a tiny, winding road through the Black Mountains, past a ruined abbey which is now a B and B and restaurant and over bleak slopes with incredible views as we dropped down to Hay. Hay, of course, is the used book capital of the world. If you love books, you'll be in heaven here. The only problem is sensory overload. Some good cafes too. I had a delicious pork stew for lunch.
Around Snowdonia:
This time I succumbed to being a tourist and rode one of the narrow gauge railways. It was the Ffestiniog line up from Porthmadog to Blenau Ffestiniog. What a trip! The engines and rolling stock are all in miniature and very old. The line is operated entirely by volunteers who love playing with old railway engines. The journey starts by crossing the estuary on what is known as the cob—a narrow strip just wide enough for cars and train, with glistening water on either side. Then the train starts to climb, winding its way through oak woods with superb views opening up on either side. Higher and higher, over bridges, through tunnels. Its shrill whistle announces when it is about to cross a road or stop at a station. After about an hour it reaches the bleak uplands and pulls into Blenau Ffestiniog station with much tooting of whistles. Refreshments are served on the train. A highly recommended trip!
My main reason for going to the slate town of Blenau Ffestiniog was to go down a slate mine. With some trepidation I signed up for the deep cavern tour at Llechwith mine in Blenau Ffestiniog. What an experience. A steep little rail car plunges you seven stories down into darkness. Then it leaves with its driver and you are alone, guided only by lights, from cavern to cavern. At each stop there is a sound and light show to recreate conditions in the mine a century ago. Very realistic and moving.
Another highlight of my recent trip was a visit to Portmerion. TV viewers will know it as the surreal village in the series "The Prisoner." It can be reached across the estuary from Portmadog and then driving through beautiful woodland. When you come into the estate it takes you by surprise. You feel that you have been transported to Italy. It is a complete Italian village, nestled into a gentle hillside beside the ocean. It was started almost a century ago as a private venture by architect Sir Clough Williams-Ellis—a large folly, if you will. Now it's a luxury hotel with the option of sleeping in the main house or one of the eccentric cottages. One can also visit for the day and, for a small fee, enjoy strolling the grounds, which abound with fountains, ornamental pools, archways, towers, eat at one of the restaurants and shop in the fascinating specialty stores.
And if you're touring Snowdonia, be sure to take a side trip across the Menai Straits to Anglesey (or as the Welsh call it, Mon). There a wonderful views across to the mountains and the little town of Beaumaris has a spectacular castle.
And on the subject of food: a more diverse cuisine is appearing (at last) in the area, but be aware of one thing—everything still closes very early, by global standards. Look for a good meal after eight o'clock and you'll be disappointed.
A great find: The new chain of motels called Travel Inns now has two of them open in the Llandudno/Bangor area. They are great value, clean, warm, good bathroom and they have an inexpensive restaurant attached with a good selection of food.
